Chapter · 2020

Wool in the Bronze Age: concluding reflections

K. Kristiansen and M. L. S. Sørensen

In The Textile Revolution in Bronze Age Europe: Production, Specialisation, Consumption. Cambridge University Press

A concluding chapter on wool in Bronze Age Europe, linking sheep husbandry and the trade in wool, yarn and cloth to labour, social organisation and clothing.

Kristiansen and Sørensen review how wool textiles altered Bronze Age European economies and societies. They connect sheep breeding and fibre processing with trade in wool, yarn and cloth, with changing labour arrangements, and with the role of clothing in expressing identity. Wool textiles appear in Europe around 2000 BC, in their account, and show wider distribution by 1600 BC. The evidence consists of textile and fibre analyses, written records, settlement and household estimates, and preserved clothing from burials.

Wool production, they argue, required larger flocks and access to grazing land, and its stages of processing placed different demands on labour from plant-fibre production. Wool, yarn and textiles moved through local and long-distance networks, sometimes alongside other traded materials, and patterns varied by region and social group. They discuss changes in sheep and textile production in the Middle Bronze Age, including 1600–1300 BC, and use Danish evidence from 1500–1100 BC to estimate trade and textile use. Isotope results from Danish textiles bear on the movement of wool and yarn, though the analysed sample is small and the oak-coffin burials may represent an elite group (pp. 319–326).

They conclude that wool textiles emerged through experimentation and selective breeding, with regional differences in fibre quality and quantity. Wool economies could be entangled with metal and salt exchange, while textiles and ornaments helped distinguish bodies, gender and social identities (pp. 328–329).

What it records

  • Average wool yield is about 700–750 g for wethers and about 600 g for ewes.p. 319
  • One hectare of Scandinavian land is estimated to yield 1–2 kg of wool or 300–400 kg of flax, in an estimate the authors cite.p. 320
  • Isotope analysis found that 75% of the analysed Danish textiles were of non-local origin.p. 325
  • Only 37 textile pieces had been analysed for the discussion of Danish trade.p. 326
  • Isotope analysis indicates that the Egtved woman travelled twice between south-central Germany and Jutland during the final two years of her life, the authors report.p. 326

Where to read

  • Sheep husbandry, fibre yields and labour demandspp. 319–321
  • Danish textile trade estimates and burial evidencepp. 324–327
  • Clothing, gender and bodily identitypp. 328–329

Contents

  • Wool and Subsistence Practices318
  • Trade in Wool, Yarn and/or Textiles321
  • The Wider Context: Demographic and Economic Trends322
  • Approaching a Quantification of the Wool Trade323
  • The Role of Long-Distance Trade and Contacts327
  • The New Body Culture of Wool and Metal328
  • Conclusion329

People, places and institutions

People

  • Andrew Sherrattproposed the secondary products revolution
  • Johannes Müllercalculated European population estimates

Places

  • Must Farmtextile production evidence
  • Thysettlement density example
  • HallstattBronze Age salt production example
  • Egtvedburial and mobility evidence

Also named: Timothy Earle, Százhalombatta-Földvár, Trindhøj, Borum Eshøj, Skrydstrup.

Extent pp. 317–332; bibliography

NeolithicEarly Bronze AgeMiddle Bronze AgeLate Bronze AgeTextiles and DressTradeFood and FarmingTechnologyDaily Life

Cited on Ancient Cyprus

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