Through Cyprus

Contents

As printed in the book, with its page numbers

1. CHAPTERI
2. LONDON TO SUEZ1
3. The Start—Amenities of Travelling—Unpleasant Precedents—Very Miserable—At Lyons—Marseilles—Port Said—The Shaloof—Arrival at Suez—Expedition to 'Ain Mousa—'I am a Moslem.' CHAPTERII
4. In Cairop. 19
5. Little Difficulties—Said's Trick—Taken for Moslem Ladies—Tel-el-Kebîr—A Motley Crowd—Shepheard's Hotel—Climate of Cairo—I Try to Learn Colloquial Arabic—My Plan—Arab English—Arab Teachers—Wheat the Forbidden Fruit—Incivility of some English Travellers—A Mistake of Simplicity—Excessive Gaiety—Noble Exceptions CHAPTERIII
6. The Sights of Cairop. 39
7. The Boulak Museum—Mummy of Rameses II.—The Tomb of the Caliphs—The Great Pyramid—Its Construction—View from the Top—Spurious Coins—The Sphinx—Description—The Mosque El Azhar—Conversations with 'Ulemas—The Kurân—The Great Hall or University—Moslem Students CHAPTERIV
8. The Sights of Cairo (Continued)p. 49
9. vi Coptic Families—Coptic Priests—A Coptic Family—A Coptic Marriage—The Coptic Cathedral—A Boys' School—Reflections CHAPTERV
10. ALEXANDRIA TO BEYROUTp. 72
11. Miss Robinson's Soldiers' and Sailors' Homes—On Board the La Seyne —Fellow-passengers—Jaffa—Difficulty of Finding Servants for Cyprus—Tents or no Tents?—Risks of Travel in Cyprus—Roads in Cyprus—A Storm—Delay in Departure—Opportunity for Learning Language—A Roman Catholic Teacher—Beyrout Schools—Work of Americans—Mrs. Bowen Thompson—School of Society of Friends—Excursion to Nahr-el-Kelb CHAPTERp. VI
12. BEYROUT TO CYPRUSp. 91
13. The 'Rio Grande'—Fellow-Passengers—Tripoli—Off Larnaca—The Custom House—Climate of Cyprus—The Tents—Origin of Name Cyprus—Mr. Hamilton Lang's Views—Mr. Watkins' Opinions on the Cypriots—Disturbed Slumbers—Our Cavalcade—George, the Dragoman—Peculiar Greek and More Peculiar English—Mangled Italian—George's Character—Salim—Constantine the Cook—A Confusion of Georges—Ibrahim the Arab CHAPTERp. VII
14. CYPRUS DESCRIBEDp. 104
15. Messaria—Mountainous in the West—Larnaca to Famagousta—The March—Village of Ormidia—Rain—A Perfect Little Oasis—Homœopathic Medicine—A Cypriote Church—A Service—Great Plain of Famagousta—First Sight of the Town—Varoschia—Famagousta—Torre del Moro—Fall of Famagousta—Bragadino's Fate—We Leave Famagousta CHAPTERp. VIII
16. TRIKOMO TO KYTHEREAp. 124
17. CONTENTSp. vii
18. CHAPTERp. IX
19. KYTHEREA TO LEUCOSIAp. 141
20. In a Labyrinth of Hills—Perplexity—Trusting to a Boy-guide—The Convent of St. Chrysostom—Interior—History—First View of Leucosia —Besieged by a Crowd—Leucosia Improved under British Rule—A Greek Priest—Still Besieged—A Prison—Cathedral of St. Sophia-–A Tragedy—A Priest Photographer CHAPTERX
21. FROM LEUCOSIA TO LEFKAp. 156
22. The Turk, Mustapha—Nicosia, very Warm—The Dreaded Kofi—Lovely Landscapes—Bellapais Abbey—Kyrenia—Mr. Maurogordato—Crime in Cyprus—The Fort—Country Round Kyrenia Lovely—Along the Coast—Lapithus—Monastery of St. Pantalemoni—Encampment and Sunday Rest—The Bishop—Prospects of Union between Greek and Anglican Churches—The British Government and the Schools—At Morphou—An Archimandrite—Lefka—The Feast of St. George—Queen Victoria's Mistake—The Queen's Birthday CHAPTERXI
23. FROM LEFKA TO KYKKOp. 177
24. A Case of Overloading—Deep Solitudes—A Pleasant Resting-place—A Testimony to British Rule and Improvement—Campos--Polite Reception—A Pleasant Road—Kykko—The Monastery—Reception there from Monks--Conversation with Them—Present of Wine —Monks come to Tea in the Tent—'Resurrection of the Virgin'—The Monks Chanting —A Scene of the Middle-Ages CHAPTERXII
25. FROM KYKKO TO CHRYSOROGHIATISSAp. 192
26. Bad Roads—Arabic for the Mules—Chrysoroghiatissa—The Monks' Welcome—Heavy Rains—Conversations with the Monks—Collapse of Tents—Lodgings in the Monastery—High Winds—The Village School —Advice to the Children—'Time is Money'—A Glimpse of Sunshine CHAPTERXIII
27. FROM CHRYSOROGHIATISSA TO PAPHOSp. 204
28. viii CONTENTS skipos—A Cave—De Cesnola's Views—Apples of Cyprus—Old Paphos —Legend of Cinyras—A Ruined Castle—'The Great Temple of Venus' —Claudian Quoted—Augustine Quoted—Virgil CHAPTERXIV
29. FROM PAPHOS TO COLOSSIp. 228
30. The Cypriots and Cruelty to Animals—Pretty Village of Piscopi—A Storm—A Babel—Retreat from Tents—Still Unsheltered—Ruins of the City of Curium—Colossi—The Commanderia Wine—De Cesnola's Discoveries CHAPTERXV
31. LAST DAYS IN CYPRUSp. 240
32. 'Canning Street'—Limasol—Many Invitations—Hot Winds—The Oldest City in Cyprus—The God Malika—Human Sacrifices—Heathen Miracle Plays—Vases—Sculptures—Pretty Hamlet of Zee—Visitors— Citi—Larnaca—The Royal Hotel—On Board the Alphée CHAPTERXVI
33. GLEANINGS FROM THE HISTORY OF CYPRUSp. 255
34. First Notice of Cyprus—Divinities—Worship of Aphrodite—The Nine Kingdoms—Subject to Egypt—To Persia—The Cyprus Contingent for Invasion of Greece—Greek Influence—Evagoras—Abdemon's Plot— Sparta Supreme--Evagoras—Freedom Against Tyranny—Evagoras' Situation Becomes Desperate—Plots—Luxury—Menander's Satire on the Cypriots CHAPTERXVII
35. HISTORY OF CYPRUS (CONTINUED)p. 285
36. CONTENTSp. ix
37. CHAPTERXVIII
38. CONCLUSIONp. 313
39. Appendixp. 341
40. Capabilities of the Island—Products—Caroub-tree—The Olive—Wheat—Cotton—Wine—Grapes—Fruit—Copper—Henna—Salt—Products of Cyprus and Malta Compared—Character of Turks and Greeks—Desire of Greeks for Cyprus—Advantages of Speaking Greek—Greek Aspirations for Political Unity CLIMATE OF CYPRUSp. 341
41. List Of Illustrationsp. 153
42. CHURCH OF ST. SOPHIA, NICOSIA To face pp. 153
43. RUINED MONASTERY OF BELLAPAISp. 158
44. COURTYARD OF MONASTERY AT KYKKOp. 190